I'm not sure for whom I'm writing this. I'm likely the only one whoever reads it. In case not - beware the Mexican Riviera!
Just got back and, unless you want to spend oodles at the newest copy of Disneylandish Riviera scam, don't go. Well, with caveats. Paradise can still be found, but it takes some looking. Beware car rental (particularly Hertz) and condominium scams.
If you have to stay in Cancun (and I wouldn't out of choice), El Rey del Caribe is about as close as you can get to not being in the middle of a big city. It's reasonable ($80 a night for a king bed, inc. continental breakfast), near the bus terminal, and all rooms surround a beautiful garden with a constantly tinkling fountain and pool.
Find the lovely Isla Holbox a three hour bus ride north of Cancun. It's a yet unspoiled fishing village that is fast disappearing along with many other small islands on our precious planet. If you crave a tranquil beach and nothing much to do but loll about in a hammock outside your own palm-roofed cabina, check out Villas Chimay. Petra makes a lovely breakfast every morning, and the orange juice and fresh fruit are . . . aaaaaah. Please don't mind the large iguanas and compost toilets.
South of Cancun is one fancy, overblown condominium development and resort complex after another. What used to be the lovely fishing village of Playa del Carmen has become a city complete with shopping centers, MacDonald's and Home Depot.
We made it to Tulum where there are more resorts than we could count, but at least they are small, hidden within the jungle, and everything is powered by solar or wind turbines. Be warned. Nothing is cheap here. Expect to pay at least as much as you would anywhere in the States. EXCEPT: One little place a hitchhiker we picked up told us about. It's a taqueria on the west side of the highway from Cancun about a block from the main intersection between the pueblo of Tulum and the road to the beach. The reasonable supermarket is right there on the corner. This place has the best fish tacos I have ever had in my life! A whole filet in each one, and they melt in your mouth - $1.50 each. Lordy, I want one right now.
We stayed six nights in a cabina on the beach at Diamante K. White sand, aqua water, mosquito nets, breeze, plenty of hammocks and shady palms, lots of little palm topped cabinas, amazing Mayan-style carvings and bronze statues. Whoever originally built this place was very creative, mucho talent. Great restaurant and beach bar, although it could get a little loud at night if you wanted to sleep, but electricity was turned off at eleven. We had breakfast served on the beach one morning - the height of luxury. We were on vacation, you know.
Took a drive and exploration south through the biosphere of Sian Ka'an to the fishing village of Punta Allen with a couple we met and hung out with. All four of us decided if we came back, we would stay here the whole time. This place is still unspoiled and very beautiful. No fancy restaurants and wild parties though, so if that's what you want . . . .
Beach walks, eating, snorkeling in a cenote (freshwater pools inland), eating, making new friends, exploring, eating, hammock dozing, sunning, eating, swimming, writing, reading, eating. Yeah, we gained a few pounds.
I'm relaxed, refreshed, recharged. How long will it last?
Til next time.